FEATURED ARTICLES           Thursday, September 09, 2010                                Email to a Friend
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Stephanie Herold
Virtues and Vices was the theme, title, and prime exhibition of Ryerson’s annual fashion showcase. Fashion Design students created designs for several mini fashion shows, and the Fashion Communications students organized the overall presentation; both programs pulling together to bring this show to its fruition. What were the fruits of their labour? Clothing that was mostly nice, but a little bit naughty…

The show was composed of 21 individual fashion showcases, each featuring a few designers’ take on a theme- from Justice and Peaceful to Ruthless, Seduction and Sloth. These shows alternated between menswear, designed by third-year design students, and women’s eveningwear, designed by second-year students.
The end products were a collection of very eclectic women’s eveningwear, with pieces taking drastically different approaches to a theme, and several menswear lines which utilized similar techniques and fabrics, exuding a more unified approach to the chosen theme. These respective approaches were well suited to what each collection was: the men’s resembling a ready-to-wear collection from a label ready to be mixed and matched together, and the women’s akin to couture designed to adorn each female as a rare bird.
Ultimately, it was irrelevant whether individuality or cohesiveness was the better avenue in forming these collections. What made a lasting impression were the designers’ inspirations, creativity, and craftsmanship (that’s where the naughty comes in).
Menswear was dominated by denim, jackets, and a vast range of silk-screened imagery. Perhaps the silk-screen addition which added the most to the appearance of a piece were dark blue guns, added to the contrasting jewel tone turquoise lining of both front portions of a grey pinstripe vest. The vest was in the Envy portion of the show, and was designed by Patricia Youn. Envy as a whole keep to the “Lock n’ Load” sub theme, also offering pinstriped pants, at shin, and long lengths, as well as another tailored vest done with silk-screened money coming out of the pockets.
This collection would appeal to those who wanted to project a mafioso image, however, any true gangster may be displeased with the tailoring on a particular long tailored jacket which was simply too big for the model. This was a student fashion show, so some room for error can be made, especially since the designers had to purchase their own materials. Nevertheless, this piece, as well as a few other pieces in the show, could have benefited from some bespoke tailoring.
Another notable men’s collection was Lust, with the mini theme Pomp it Up. This portion of the show used bright yellows, red, and blues, drawing its influence from the character Ducky, a new-waver from the 1986 Teen Classic Pretty in Pink. This collection was a ton of fun, one of its star pieces being an awesomely executed pair of red ankle length pants with thick and thin black piping, done by Jenny Fancy. These pants were absolutely refreshing after the abundant denim shown for men. Though they did not have the mass appeal denim has, as a designer showcase piece they were appropriate since they emitted lots of the designer’s unique energy.
This pomp throwback is not unusual in our current fashion scene. Since as early as 2004, women like Gwen Stefani and Heidi Klum have been sporting modernized pompadour ponytails, taking cues from characters like Danny Zucco of the cult classic Grease. This is a natural fit for our current time, as we are transitioning from the flat ironed hair which dominated the latter part of the 90s and early 00s, to bigger hair with a bigger and flashier presence.
Women’s eveningwear was also not without contextual significance. One of the best and most beautiful examples of this was a gown by Dez-Bara Assi from the Patience show. The high halter neck backless top section was done in a light champagne satin, covered with tuxedo-esque ruffles, and finished off with fitted bodice, resembling a cummerbund, embellished with a big bow. The fitted floor length mermaid skirt was done in a subtly wrinkled opaque fabric of the same color.
The varied portions of this dress developed a masculine-feminine dichotomy, not unlike the balancing act modern women and men work through daily. Men are staying at home with children, while women are getting increasingly better and more demanding jobs. This dress catered to a women’s desire to be unabashedly feminine, manifested through the mermaid skirt and backless top, while still pulling on clothing elements from garments classically tied to men’s eveningwear: the tuxedo short, and cummerbund. The result? A beautifully tailored dress adapted for the modern chameleonic women.
Love, a mini show to itself of women’s wear, also seemed to be targeted to the alpha female individual. This section looked like what a group of diverse women would wear to the same formal function: each dress seemingly taking a different take on what different women might love to wear and feel loved in.
It started with a two tone fuchsia and red taffeta strapless gown, hopelessly glamorous with rosettes on the bottom of a two-tiered pitches skirt. This dress was followed by a full length, deep halter hand died floral gown in orange, blue and white, finished off with a wide brown faux suede double buckle belt. The end product was a fusion of Marilyn’s white halter, and a hippy’s sweeping sun dress. Love ended off with Jane Austen’s prom dress: a romantic dusty rose brocade with a delicate paisley pattern. This dress had a deep scope neck, and empire waist highlighted with a dusk coloured light blue and golden toned gleaming bodice. It was pure natural charm.

Other notable moments of the show were some playful hip hop jazz dancers, an introductory speech by David Dixon, successful Canadian fashion designer, and a rather cheeky and expressive narrator.
Overall the show represented a great effort from incredibly hard working students. The ideas were fresh for the most part and on our world’s pulse, forecasting a bright future for Canadian fashion. Tailoring mistakes were not overwhelming, and hopefully deserving students got some much deserved exposure.
A true victory for Campus life.
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